1. Analyzing Inspiration
From Moodboard to Wardrobe
In 2021, I made the grave mistake of posting a Twitter thread of advice on how to shop more thoughtfully and, as a result, sustainably. Long story short, while I received quite a bit of backlash from not only the “just thrift!” crowd (mind you, you can still overconsume secondhand clothing and therefore should also thrift thoughtfully) but also the “let people enjoy things” mob, I also got a huge boost to my following thanks to people who were sick of the fast fashion rat race and looking for ways to slow down and take a more deliberate approach to how they get dressed.
It was that response that lead me to Substack, and, in just a year, this little newsletter born from Twitter has blossomed into thousands of readers and a pretty okay living for me as a writer—something I’d never imagined for myself, before (though I do supplement my Substack income with personal styling work in order to live comfortably in Los Angeles).
That said, there’s one question y’all have been asking me since I first put finger to MacBook keyboard: How do you figure out your personal style?
Well, the wait is finally over. For the next few weeks, I’ll be posting a series of guides taking you along the entire process of not just figuring out how you want to dress, but also how to actually build a wardrobe that fits the bill:
Inspiration (this article, Analyzing Inspiration) is all about what to do once you’ve gathered your, you know, inspiration.
Interrogation (21 Questions And Answers to Find Your Style) is about sitting down to really figure out your wardrobe and style goals and where you are in your journey.
Evaluation (How to Evaluate Your Wardrobe and Why Did You Buy That?) tasks you with assessing your existing wardrobe to understand what you buy vs. what you actually wear, and turning what you own into a workable foundation on which to build.
Actualization (Declaration of Style) is essentially putting words to how you want to look and how you achieve it. Your Style Declaration is meant to keep you on track as you begin planning and making purchases.
Preparation (Starting From Scratch) is where we’re going to create your official shopping list.
Execution (How to Shop Like a Stylist) is where I teach you to shop like me!
And so, without further ado…here’s how to make your wardrobe look like your moodboard.
Back in my day, making a moodboard meant getting a piece of posterboard (or a spiral notebook full of mini-boards categorized by vibe if you were really serious), sitting down with a fat stack of Seventeens, YMs, and Teen Vogues, along with a gluestick and scissors, and cutting and pasting to your heart’s content. It usually made no sense because, pre-internet, we were beholden to whatever existed in the pages of those magazines, without a lot of freedom to compile images that truly resonated with us, let alone reflected us.
These days, it’s easy. You can use Canva to make a digital collage; bookmark and organize images on Instagram; or, my personal favorite, make a Pinterest board. We live in an age where there is almost nothing new left to be made, so, whatever you’re imagining can surely be found somewhere: it’s just a matter of putting it all in one place. But, what do you do with it?
Refining Your Moodboard
Personally, I believe the creation of your moodboard should take no less than a year. You want to gather all the inspiration you spot over the course of 365 days, from all four seasons, to all the activities you do and even the relationships that may come and go in that time. But, if you’re pressed for time, you can just spend a day going through all your Instagram likes. It’s the same thing. Point is: you want a full range of moods to populate your board.
Once you’ve gathered about 100-200 images, it’s time to clean it up. Look at what you’ve compiled—like, really look at each image individually—and ask yourself: “would I actually wear this?”
A lot of times, when we’re seeking inspiration on the internet, we end up being “inspired” by things for the wrong reasons. While putting purely pretty things together can be fun, it’s important to be honest:
Did you save that image because you like the outfit, or just the body wearing it?
Do you want those clothes, or the lifestyle you think they’ll bring you?
Are you imagining you in these looks, or just putting your head on their body and not actually honoring yourself? There’s nothing wrong with crafting a fantasy, but the goal here is to bring it into the real world. I don’t wanna hear any of this “I’d wear it if I lost x amount of pounds,” or “this would be cute for a photoshoot.”
Focus on you and your actual lifestyle, right here and right now: Is it practical?
If the answer is “yes, yes, yes, and yes” congrats, it makes the final moodboard. But, if you’re on the fence about an image in any way, remove it, don’t get rid of it completely just yet: put it aside in a separate folder/moodboard. We’re gonna get to those “secondary sources” in a bit.
The (First) Analysis
Every time a client sends me their moodboard, without fail, they’ll say something along the lines of “I’m sorry if it doesn’t make sense,” or “I’m sorry it’s all over the place.” Similarly, I see a lot of people who are struggling with their personal style express that they struggle because they have “so many” different looks and “aesthetics.” I think you’ll find, however, that even people with the most eclectic or “out there” sense of style tend to be consistent when it comes to things like silhouettes, garment details, and styling. But, those consistent threads can be difficult to detect when things like fabrics, colors/prints, and especially the specific garments appear so wildly different. So, let’s talk about all of the above, using the example moodboard below.
Did the bolded words above tip you off to what you’d be looking for? That’s right: there’s six basic elements of your moodboard that you should be literally taking note of, like, I mean, you’re gonna need a notepad for this.
Let’s start with the silhouettes we see. What shapes and cuts are appearing over and over again? How do they fit: mostly loose or very fitted? What lengths do we see the most: long, short, midi? In this particular moodboard, I notice a lot of long, body-skimming skirts, cropped tops, and mini as well as maxi lengths. If you struggle to figure out what you’re seeing the “most” print your moodboard and label each photo with its basic elements, or make a list with tally marks to keep track.
If you can’t figure out what kinds of silhouettes you’re seeing, check out How to Talk About Clothes Part One for a quick primer.
Colors and prints are the easiest to see when you really zoom out of your board. Here there’s a pretty even mix of monochromatic white/off-white looks as well as all black looks, with some splashes of reds and greens. The prints are—it may be hard to see—floral, for the most part, and few and far between.
As far as styling: how are things put together? Is it simple (just a top plus a bottom), or complex with lots of layers? In our example, we see mostly crop tops with long skirts, and oversized tops with short skirts. There’s not a lot of accessories, and the looser tops are either tied up or tucked in. We also see a lot of playing up of the cleavage via unbuttoned blouses, and a couple of hard-edge harnesses over floatier pieces; most of these looks are also quite summery or appropriate for spring with few exceptions, so, when making note of the fabrics (satins, mesh), also keep in mind how to adapt looks to different seasons where you are. Maybe you can simply throw an oversized sweater and some tights over your mini dresses where you are, or maybe you need to take some more time to find some coat and layering inspiration.
The specific items I see repeating quite a bit are butterfly bra-tops, platform heels, and sheer dresses and tops, so, when it comes to applying this to your wardrobe, those are the pieces I would make a point to look for and possibly invest more in, since you clearly gravitate toward them.
Finally, details is where all the little things add up: I see a lot of cut out details, low necklines, spaghetti straps and strapless tops, lots of “criss cross” effects, and high slits. In my experience, details like this can make or break whether you’ll wear a piece of not, so, I’d consider them just as important as the specific items that appear often in your own moodboard.
Ideally, at the end of this analysis, you’ll have a long a** list of stuff you generally like. As you move through this process, every decision you make will relate back to it, from evaluating your wardrobe to making your official shopping list. Now, let’s talk about all the images that didn’t make the cut.
The (Second) Analysis
In the first two parts of my How to Talk About Clothes series, I covered the details of clothing that are immediately visible: skirt shapes, collars, etc. In part three, however, I emphasized the importance of the context surrounding all of those details: the decades in which they were most popular and, oftentimes, invented; and the ways certain items work and can be styled in ways that fit specific archetypes. But why does it matter?
How To Talk About Clothes: Archetypes, Decades, and Dress Codes
In our example above, one thing that immediately jumps out to me, as someone who’s fairly well versed in fashion history, is how many images and trends from the 90s keep repeating. When it comes to decades as recent as the 90s, knowing where those trends come from and even what brands in that time were best known for the items that you like enables you to seek out looks from the source. One thing anyone who has even dabbled in vintage fashion can acknowledge is the fact that the quality of garments was simply better back in the day, and as you’re building your Forever Wardrobe, quality is obviously of the utmost importance.
If most of the wearable images from your moodboard are more contemporary, this is where the other images you put aside come in. Not only do you want to take note of the decade-specific trends that may be present, but also any designers that you’re clearly drawn to. Take it one step further and research those designers, their ethos, their influences and their other works. While you may not be able to afford them, learning the—you guessed it—context behind the images and high end garments you love can help you in how you approach your own looks.
Finally, when you’re completing your 21 questions, your “vibe” (#17) is made up of the archetype(s) the looks on your moodboard encompass the most so, again, even if something isn’t super wearable, break down the elements that drew you to it in the first place, and take note of the patterns and where they fit.
