The Shoe Dilemma

How To Build Your Best Shoe Wardrobe

Clothes are only 50% of your outfit. Shoes and accessories are the other 50%, and it’s not an even split: shoes are, like, 80% of that 50%, which, by my calculations, is a lot (don’t check my math). And yet, many people treat their shoes like an afterthought: pairing black shoes with light outfits, winter-y looks with summer-y sandals, or—worst of all—boring shoes with really cool clothes. Some may say “well, if I only own black shoes, what else am I supposed to wear with an all white outfit?” and to that, I say, the outfit is clearly the outlier in your wardrobe, and you haven’t allowed for outliers in your shoe wardrobe. That doesn’t mean get rid of all the “out of place” pieces in you own, it means plan around them the same way you would the rest of your clothes.

I believe a functional shoe wardrobe only requires three total pairs: something for everyday, something dressy, and something cool—you can double it if necessary for cold weather and warm weather options, and we’re obviously not including shoes for, say, working out, or those non-slip clogs required by your job, but, that’s it. Focusing on just three multi-functional pairs allows you to invest in the best you can, while forcing you to really think about how you need each pair to function in your day-to-day life.

While I personally have quite a few more pairs of shoes than three (or six, as the case may be), I still have a Big Three that I consider my basics—just like I have a much larger wardrobe than your average capsule, but I’m still able to parse out my foundational pieces that I typically aim to “match” whenever I add something new. The goal here is not just to arbitrarily downsize, but to simplify your choices so that you can not only afford to invest in better, high quality footwear, but also so you can make the right choice for your outfit, every time. ‘Cause who wants to crop their feet out of all their ‘fit checks? (Unless your toes are showing, then be sure to paywall those piggies!)

What Is A Quality Shoe?

For pretty much any style of shoe, leather is going to be your best bet. But, not just any leather. “Bonded” leather or “genuine” leather might sound fancy, but it’s the lowest quality leather you can get, and typically contains some plastic. You’ll ideally want a leather lining, as well.

The type of sole you go for is also up to you. As I recently said in Marie Claire (this article is about black boots specifically but can be applied to all styles):

“…Think about where you walk most. Soles are most commonly made from either leather or rubber. “Leather soles are easiest to get repaired and replaced, but a rubber sole is often more comfortable for those that do a lot of city walking.”

And as far as how that sole is attached, the best quality shoes will have a stitched sole (think Dr. Martens—not to say they are currently very high quality, but the soles are still stitched), but, glued soles can be done well, just make sure there’s no visible glue or excess material around where pieces are joined.

Sometimes, where the shoe is manufactured can give a bit of insight into how well it’s made. Of course, high quality and ethical labor exists in every country on Earth, however, countries like Brazil, Mexico, and Italy are especially great when seeking out high quality, independent brands and artisans.

Assess Your Needs

Even a prompt as simple as “everyday, dressy, cool” is open to interpretation, just like everything else I say. I want y’all to interpret! Adapt! Think for yourselves (within the parameters I provide)!