30 by 30

I’ve previously expressed my disdain for what I call “prescriptivist styling”: lists of 15, 20, even 30 generic pieces you absolutely “need” for a complete wardrobe. These lists are often as predictable as they are abundant: a white T-shirt, dark wash jeans, a trench coat, etc. While such a format is great for incorporating affiliate links, it doesn’t really do a lot to help you figure out what you really wanna wear. Don’t get me wrong, “timeless classics” work for a lot of people—that’s why they’re timeless and classic—but personal style is, you know, personal, and this kind of by-the-numbers checklist doesn’t really leave a lot of space to bring in your own personal taste.

The real kicker, though, is that while those “timeless classics,” as a concept, never go out of style, they’re the ones that change the most drastically along with trends. Sure “jeans” will always be in, but will the style du jour be skinny or wide? High waisted or low rise? Ripped or sandblasted?

This is precisely why having a functional wardrobe that truly stands the test of time is not about having a pre-destined list of specific items: it’s about pieces that fit a wide range of functions in a way that pleases you and you, alone. In my opinion, there is truly nothing—and I mean nothing—that belongs in or serves a purpose in every single wardrobe, but, most functions will apply to pretty much anyone who gets dressed and leaves the house, regularly: go-tos for running errands, for hanging out, for making good first impressions, for looking a little cooler. But, what functions as what in your wardrobe may be entirely different than what functions in mine or anyone else’s.

Today, I’m going to break down what all those “wardrobe essentials,” are supposed to function as, and maybe some other options to fulfill those functions. I’ll be using the word “go-to” a lot, because “go-tos” are, essentially, your foundation. What you reach for everyday, even when you barely feel like reaching for anything, should still be a reflection of your style and preferences. And it’s from that foundation that you’ll build all the other stuff.

Since we’re officially in my birthday month, and I have mere weeks left of being 30 (my birthday is April 21!), I’m going to look specifically at the 30 things you “should” have in your wardrobe by age 30, according to Vogue, Allure, and Elle.

As a treat, I’ve also (finally) enabled comments on my posts. Let’s chat!

1. A White Tee Collection (According to all three)

Vogue describes a “well-curated white T-shirt collection” as something you can “pair with quite literally anything in your closet and expect great results.” The basic, solid cotton tees are meant to be the most versatile, wearable top that you can throw on, as well as dress up or down but if you, like me, don’t feel too inspired by them, I personally opt for sweaters and button-ups for the same purpose. If your goal is to keep your outfits simple (sticking to the jeans and a tee formula, for example) without looking boring, I recommend basics with unique details, like tees, tanks and bodysuits in sheer fabrics, with cut-outs, or slight silhouette adjustments like a boxy shape or slightly cropped or even extra long length.

2. Polished Topper (Vogue)

This is called the “Third Piece,” something I often recommend for throwing on over the top of a more basic warm-weather outfit, like a tank and shorts or sundress. Vogue specifically recommends a “crisp white button up,” something I do have in my own closet, albeit for an entirely different function.

While I live in the Land of Perfect Weather, now, where I can get away with wearing actual clothing in the summer, I am originally from Texas, where temperatures regularly hit 100F/37C, making it too hot to even think, let alone put on more fabric. So, the Third Piece isn’t always practical. For those who struggle with putting together cute outfits when the sun is at melt-your-face levels, my suggestion is simply to accessorize more: unique sandals, statement earrings, a silly hat can all go a long way toward making a pair of cutoffs look stylish. And if you do find the concept of the Third Piece resonates with you, keep in mind it doesn’t have to be a crisp white button up: it can be a linen one, a cropped one, or, say, a vest or a shirt dress that you wear unbuttoned (which, of course, you can only do if it buttons all the way down).

3. Jeans (Vogue, Elle)

Personally I haven’t worn pants—especially jeans—since the Obama administration. But, I have talked about the Jean Replacement, aka a bottom you can throw on and style up or down as easily as jeans, without being jeans. I have mentioned, many times, that mine is a maxi skirt, specifically this one by Mara Hoffman (snagged via TheRealReal). I do consider the Jean Replacement to be essential, so, I made a graphic featuring some other ideas for yours:

4. Work Tote (Vogue) or Carryall (Elle)

It’s very important to have that one bag that can carry everything you could possibly need over the course of a day, but whether that’s a “work tote” or a “carry all” and how big it is and what it looks like depends on, obviously, your taste, but also, you know, what you need to carry and whether you need to carry it to work (or to a coffee shop to pretend to work). Your carryall can be big enough to fit your laptop, iPad, composition notebook, sewing machine, camera (and multiple lenses), and textbooks, or, like, a stick of lip balm and travel sized sunscreen.

5. Leather Jacket (Vogue, Elle)

Elle has just the thing for you to “make any outfit a touch more rock and roll”: The leather jacket, in essence, a go-to jacket for looking cool. Cool in my wardrobe is a super oversized blazer covered in gold brooches. Cool in your wardrobe might mean a denim jacket, or a sequined bolero, or a cape.

6. Black Pants (All three)

Allure calls these a perfect alternative to jeans specifically for when you want to dress up a bit, which, to me, sounds like a simple step up from the Jean Replacement. So, say your Jean Replacement is a pair of wide trousers, a step up would be, say, a more evening-appropriate fabric like satin or a bit of silk.

7. Vintage Closet Heroes (Vogue)

According to Vogue, “by thirty, you understand the value of investing. Invest in vintage closet heroes like this trench…or a timeless black dress,” and, I mean, sure. Choosing vintage for your workhorse pieces is a perfectly fine idea, but, whenever I hear “I go vintage for my basics,” I can’t help but wonder: “where do you go for the fun stuff?” I would consider flipping it: There are lots of high quality, ethical brands doing the classics, while some of the most off-the-wall and unique pieces are old enough to be on AARP. In general, I’d say check vintage first when you’re looking for something specific. (Insert Gem plug, here.)

8. White Sneakers (Vogue, Elle)

Vogue says, of white sneakers, “you can dress them up with one of the cocktail dresses above or with a classic black legging to follow.” I, personally, have never been a fan of dressier looks with sneakers, but, obviously, to each their own. In terms of shoes that can be dressed up or down easily, I believe that depends primarily on your lifestyle. For you, it could be loafers, or sandals, or even boots. That said, comfortable sneakers/trainers/tennis shoes/whatever you call them with adequate support for walking and other exercise grow increasingly necessary, especially as your knees age.

9. Black Boots (Vogue, Allure) or Boots (Elle)

I’m a bit biased. For me, black boots are the perfect everyday shoe. Yes, even in the summer. In fact, I own over a dozen pairs and consider myself a bit of an expert on them, to the point that I talked to Marie Claire last year about how to find your perfect pair(s)!

But, that’s my personal taste. For most others, the boot is either worn in the winter, to add a little “edge” to an outfit, or, in the most practical sense, to protect your legs from, like, rattlesnakes or something. But, if you don’t really wear a lot of black or other dark colors (or, if you do and would prefer not to), picking black accessories doesn’t really add anything to your look, especially boots, which can sort of “weigh down” an outfit that doesn’t particularly call for them (i.e. one with bright/light colors and fabrics). In that case, I’d opt for a brown or deep red boot. The style is up to you: ankle, knee high, thigh high, Dr. Marten’s—whatever.

10. Striped Top (Allure)

Striped tees like this are great worn on their own, but function best as layering pieces. They are, however, a very specific sort of vibe, i.e. very preppy and equestrian, but, make the stripes a little wider and layer it under a T-shirt and it becomes the emo kid of yore uniform. Layering pieces are nice to have specifically for “winterizing” a dress or just keeping your wool sweater from laying itchily against your bare skin but, personally, I prefer mesh, or solids in a thin, lightweight cotton.

11. Leggings (Vogue)

I appreciate leggings as the comfy, go-anywhere bottoms they’re meant to be. If the utmost priority is comfort, I agree with Vogue that they are great for travel. But, if both comfort and still looking cool and stylish is the goal, I’d recommend a lightweight non-stretchy pant (with an elastic waist for freedom of movement). As for me, I always travel in a dress because of course I do (no, I don’t typically get cold on planes; yes, I bring a sweater in case I do).

12. Black Swimsuit (Vogue)

The function of a swimsuit is just to be a swimsuit. I don’t think the color matters.

13. Mature Underwear (Vogue)

I consider proper, well-fitting underwear to be one of the most important parts of your wardrobe. I can’t tell you how many dresses and tops I’ve utterly and virulently hated only to realize later that my bra or panties were the problem all along. The importance, especially, of a properly fitting bra simply can’t be overstated. It doesn’t really matter what it looks like.

14. Signet Ring (Elle)

For those unfamiliar, below is a signet ring, characterized by the sort of “face” in the center of the ring, which used to have unique engravings that would be dipped in hot wax and used to sign and seal important documents:

Today, they are “the perfect effortless accessory to any outfit,” a function that, in my opinion, can apply to literally any piece of jewelry that you build a habit of putting on everyday.

15. Cashmere Sweater (Allure)

A few weeks ago, I would’ve said that, while most people do need some kind of sweater or a warm covering of some kind for your top half, cashmere is, by no means, a necessity. As someone who perpetually runs hot, my sweaters are primarily cotton, even linen. But, then, I got my first cashmere sweater.

If you live anywhere where sweaters are an occasional necessity, and you like being lovingly embraced by your clothing…this is a must.

16-17. Little Black Dress (Allure)

The LBD (Little Black Dress) is meant to be the ultimate going out go-to and it is, for many. But, for me, personally, when I go out, that’s when I have the strongest urge to stand out. And no one has ever been the only one in a room wearing black.

I know, I know: “but people will notice if I wear one of these over and over again to every event.” And you’re right, they will. But that’s true if you wear your “little black dress,” too. What people notice the most, though, is how happy and confident you are when you’re wearing something you love.

18. Trench Coat (Allure)

I do agree that the trench coat is “a classic coat that will never go out of style.” For in-between temperatures, though, that also describes sweater coats, blazers, or any unlined, lightweight coat.

19-22. Loafers (Allure), Heels (Allure) or Classic Pumps (Elle), Go-To Flats (Allure), and Summer Sandals (Elle)

I wouldn’t say none of these styles are “essential,” only that all of them aren’t necessary for a shoe wardrobe that can carry you through any look and season. In The Shoe Dilemma, I posit that you actually only need three pairs of shoes for a complete suite (not including shoes for outdoor and active hobbies or for work): “Something for everyday, something dressy, and something cool—you can double it if necessary for cold weather and warm weather options.” And, of course, that can be anything. All three of mine are black boots.

23. Wallet (Allure)

One day, I was getting coffee with a friend, one who uses a cotton tote as their carryall. That’s not judgment, I’m just setting the scene. We get to the register, and my friend says, “I got it.” I hate paying for LA’s overpriced lattes, so, of course, I obliged. Imagine my shock and horror when they reach into their cotton tote and pull out a loose debit card. No, it wasn’t absentmindedly tossed in after using it elsewhere. That was just how they carried it, along with their various IDs and insurance card. Just…untethered, unsecured, flying around freely with all their hair elastics and hand cream and travel sized Moleskine notebook. We are, of course, no longer friends.

I’m kidding, we are still friends, but the point is, you need something to put your money/cards in. It can be a wallet, a cardholder, a clip, or, hell, a plastic bag. Just, please…don’t attach it to your phone.

24-25. Cocktail Dress (Vogue) or Statement Dress (Elle)

I’ve lumped them together, here, but, actually, the cocktail dress and statement dress have entirely different functions: the former is just a go-to look for events with a “cocktail” dress code, and the latter, a standout, knockout look for when you want to be fancy. I put them together, though, because they can easily be just one piece. Like the LBD alternative, this also doesn’t have to be a dress.

26. A Watch (Elle)

Some sort of wrist adornment is a worthwhile addition to anyone’s jewelry collection, particularly when the arms are bare, have the potential to become bare (like, you might roll up your sleeves), or your sleeves need a little decoration. However, I’m partial to a nice cuff, myself, while you may prefer, say, a Cuban link (Curban on Curban), or a tennis bracelet, or a bangle (or several bangles).

27. Sunglasses (Elle)

Yes, eye protection is very important. For my fellow glasses-wearers, it is absolutely worth investing in prescription sunglasses.

28. Midi Skirt (Allure)

This is just an alternative to jeans specifically for when you want to dress up a bit by a different name. While it’s nice to have that staple skirt (if you wear skirts, of course) that “looks good with strappy sandals, ladylike flats, and even sneakers,” that actually describes literally any skirt of any length.

29. Silk Scarf (Allure)

Sure, you can “tie it around your neck, wrap it around your waist, or loop it through a bag handle for a decorative touch.” But, if you’re not a fan of things around your neck, or don’t like the look of a scarf-as-a-belt, or your bags don’t really need a “decorative touch,” you can skip this one.

30. Understated/Elevated Jewelry (Vogue)

I’ve written thousands of words on the importance of jewelry and will most likely write thousands more. To summarize: you are not Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. Your outfit needs jewelry.

This is where the go-tos matter most: start with your everyday “suite”. You can go all the way with a necklace, bracelet, earrings and rings everyday, or just one or two of those, or five of one and none of the others, whatever resonates with you. What’s important is getting in the habit of putting your everyday pieces on…everyday. I’d go so far as to say that, if you feel something is missing from your wardrobe, buy a piece of jewelry first, before you consider adding clothing.

ICYMI: I’m on the This Is Uncomfortable podcast this week talking about my life, my villain origin story (losing my entire wardrobe), and subsequent journey into consuming fashion more sustainably.